Vivienne Westwood 81載人生謝幕，離經叛道的龐克精神長存

[Edith]

被稱為「龐克教母」的英國時裝設計師Vivienne Westwood在29日於家中安詳辭世，震撼時尚圈，細數她的81年人生，從讓「龐克文化」（Punk）走上伸展台，到讓伸展台成為政治、全球暖化等環保議題的發聲管道，讓叛逆與破格成為她的招牌印記。

Vivienne Westwood生於1941年4月8日英國柴郡，17歲因舉家搬至倫敦，讓她進入哈羅藝術學校（Harrow）就讀首飾設計與製作，雖並沒畢業，也開啟她對時尚的興趣之路，隨後，她進修教職，進入小學擔任老師，但並未中斷其設計之路，持續設計首飾於攤販販售。 1962年， Vivienne Westwood與首任丈夫Derek Westwood共結連理，而Westwood正是冠夫姓，當時她披著自己設計的婚紗出嫁，展現設計天分，並在1963年產下長子，只是之後，Vivienne Westwood遇見Malcolm McLaren，為追求愛情，便在當時保守的民風下提出離婚，選擇與Malcolm McLaren相守，遭受非議。

2人也在1971年開出店鋪，於店中販售Vivienne Westwood西太后所設計的服飾與飾品，加上，Malcolm McLaren後來成為傳奇龐克樂團「Sex Pistols」的經紀人，Vivienne Westwood設計的服飾自然成為他們在台上的表演服，正式開啟她離經叛道的龐克時裝之路。

Vivienne Westwood於1981年正式發表首個時裝系列「海盜系列」，將龐克文化中的綁帶、性虐等元素融入此系列的海盜靴中，成為品牌經典設計，隨後她與Malcolm McLaren分道揚鑣，各自發展，但其龐克文化中的綁帶、針扣、刀片與英倫風格的格紋布、英國國旗印花布料等結合，加上具功能性的設計，使之成為龐克時裝代表。

1985年她在尋覓新系列設計靈感時，見媽媽送給她的天文學書籍中，看見宇宙與星體的照片，因而將土星加上皇冠與珠寶，催生出此品牌的招牌標誌，此外，其也熱衷於運用可持續發展的材料去設計衣服，不難看出她後來何以將伸展台變成她訴求全球暖化等環保議題的發聲管道。 Vivienne Westwood的設計風格從1981起，歷經新浪漫、異教等風格，1992年， Vivienne Westwood認識當前的先生Andreas Kronthaler，並同步掌管品牌設計，如今， Vivienne Westwood離世，宣告她離經叛道的81載人生，但其掀起的龐克時裝文化精神將持續長存。

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